Inari Tee Dress

Happy Sunday, sewists! The world seems to be descending into all hellish colours of chaos, but here at Sew South London I am seeking solace in the peaceful pleasures of sewing. I hope I find you in a similar state.

True to form, I’ve been sewing up a few multiples. The Named Clothing Inaree Tee Dress has reached mythical status in the online sewing community. It’s taken a while for me to get round to it, but once I did I could not stop. How can such a simple shape be so universally flattering?

I made my first version in a cotton linen fabric from Simply Fabrics in Brixton. Anyone who has ever shopped there will know that every bolt has an interesting heritage. This fabric was apparently ftom Paul Smith. I’ve made several tops from it already, including an early Tilly Mathilde hack. (Gosh I look young in that photo.)

The wearable toile turned out so well that I bounced straight on to the next one. And the next. In fact I’m making a fourth in Chinese Shanghai Tang silk as I write! 

The second version was in delicious denim linen mix from The Little Fabric Store in Louth. I’ve used this before on an Emery Dress and a Deer and Doe Sureau (which I don’t love). It’s such a great staple. 

I’d read lots of reviews of this pattern, almost all positive, but there were a couple of mentions of armhole issues. I made it up as designed and was happy with it. I guess it’s a matter of how close to perfection you wish to be. This is the perfect casual and almost-smart dress for the climate in Malaysia. 

Yes, the annoying electrical socket is still there, I think to myself! This gorgeous red linen fabric came from Tessuti Fabrics in Melbourne. There’s a certain starstruck feeling when you finally visit a real bricks and mortar shop on the ‘other side of the world’ when you’ve spent years looking longingly at their website! This fabric was a dream to sew with. Thanks to the generous fabric requirement of the pattern, there’s enough left over for an Inaree Tee too!


Me Made May 16: I did. Did you?

Hello (sheepish whisper). It’s been quite a while. i honestly didn’t know if I’d come back to writing this blog. Which is a shame. It was an absolute lifeline when I was at home in London with two very small children. Being in touch with the sewing community kept me on the right side of sane. Just. A year into life in Malaysia and with a full-time job, I have a lot less desire to spend my evenings in front of a computer screen, but I am still sewing and I do stay in touch with my favourite bloggers even if it tends to be on Instagram!

I answered the call to Me Made May with a pledge to wear something handmade every day, which I more or less do most of the time these days. I got to the end of the month with no repeat outfits and learned a couple of things to boot.

Although I wear my handmade clothes almost every day, I really missed my favourite Muji linen dresses. They are so comfy and loose-fitting but after this week’s new Inari Tee Dress even they may become obsolete. FYI: I think this just may be the most versatile and flattering dress ever!

Over the course of this year I have been consciously making clothes in solid dark colours and in jersey to redress the balance of my wardrobe and to reflect my fashion preferences. MMM was reminder that my early handmade clothes were often inspired by my love of colour and print. As I reached for my favourite black Moneta, I realised I wanted to look more sleek and elegant than ‘colourful art teacher’ chic. We all had one, didn’t we?! There’s still a fair bit of colour in these photos, but some solids too.

The month also revealed my pattern company loyalties. When I like something, I want it in every colour and texture. Chances are I will buy all of your patterns. Witness my numerous Colette Patterns outfits (Wren, Moneta, Laurel), and multiple Tilly and the Buttons numbers (Mathilde, Agnes, Bettine), not to mention ALL the Grainline Studio patterns! There was a profusion of indie patterns, and according to these photos, only a couple of big pattern companies (the floral scuba McCalls M6886, Simplicity 2444, and the Big Purple One – Simplicity 2406).

Being ‘coerced’ into wearing all the handmade clothes I could lay my hands on meant that I rediscovered a few gems that have been languishing at the back of the wardrobe. I kicked off Day 1 with my first ever Tilly Mathilde (not pictured here). It was like a reunion with a dear friend. Why was I not wearing this every week like I used to? Is there such a thing as too many handmade clothes??

The daily selfie-taking did me in eventually. The light in the tropics is unforgiving and harsh. If I didn’t get my photo taken pre-school run it wasn’t possible. Lord knows there’s enough pressure in my life getting myself and two small people out of the house by 7.45am without a blog-worthy photo shoot thrown into the mix. My five year old did me proud and snapped a few of these – clever girl. The downside is that her school photo came this week. There she is with hand on hip and giving good ‘right leg’ while the other kids stand up straight. They say the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree…!

I’ll sign off (for another 3 months!) with one of my two new garments from May – a black Colette Wren (the other was the Grainline Alder at the top of this post). It’s a winner and ticks all the boxes for dark, solid colours in a flattering, work-friendly jersey dress. It’s been lovely to catch up. Take care all. x


Alder with Added Liberty

Can you believe I’ve been labouring over this Grainline Alder dress for over a month! Since Father Christmas brought me some books on achieving a great fit, I’ve really slowed down my sewing in an attempt to up-skill my fitting techniques.  

My most common alteration is a full bust adjustment. I took ages deciding which size to base my dress on. My measurements matched a size 12, but knowing that Grainline draft for a ‘B’ cup meant that I knew I’d be better off using my high bust size. Also, the finished garment measurements looked huge and I didn’t want the dress to turn out like a chambray tent. So I traced off a size 8 with a 1″ FBA and made up my first toile bodice.

Straight away I could see that there was a problem: the bust dart was incredibly low so the ‘added fullness’ was completely in the wrong place. Back to the cutting table…. I raised the bust dart by 1.5″, pivoting up the apex and leaving the dart legs where they were on the original position in the side seam. The Grainline sewalong suggested boxing and moving the dart up or down in its entirety but there wasn’t enough space below the armhole to accommodate the whole dart up by 1.5″! I don’t think I’m the only person to have had this issue with Alder. I went with the fitting textbook and was pleased to find that it worked out: the next toile fit perfectly.


So I went for it…. Apart from sewing curved bust darts to get a more natural shape, I sewed the dress up as instructed. On reflection, looking at these photos, the dress looks a little too baggy on the front. The bust fit is spot on, but the extra 1″ added on each side has resulted in spare fabric on the front panels. In a dress comprising of bodice and skirt you can remove the added fabric in waist darts, but in a shirt dress the added fabric stays to the hem. I wonder whether I should had removed the extra 1″ from the side where the front panel hits the gathered skirt? Or am I over-scrutinising?   

Either way, I am extremely pleased with this dress. It’s the perfect summer outfit. I took care over the top stitching and added some of my precious Liberty Tana Lawn Oxford as a contrast yoke and collar stand. I wasn’t sure if the collar stand was a step too far, but lovely insta-buddies agreed that the more Liberty the better! I finished off with a gorgeous teal button for a splash contrast colour. I think I might be making another one sooner rather than later. I’m already planning my Christmas plaid Alder with sleeves! 


Happy New Year in the Gregorian and Chinese lunar calendars! I started the New Year with a diet – a smart phone diet! And as with most diets, once you get over the worst bit it becomes a little bit life changing!

I’d noticed that I was spending increasing amounts of time enthralled with your amazing sewing blogs and visually tantalizing Instagram feeds. It was time to give it a rest and rejoin the real world!
I’ve enjoyed taking time out and regaining some reading and sewing time, but now I want to share with you my new Colette Patterns Wren dress. I’m really pleased with it after the alterations I made. The fabric is a gorgeous and light viscose knit that feels like it’s floating on your skin. In order to get a perfect fit I read and re-read Thimberlina’s detailed description of her alterations. Thank goodness for other bloggers doing the hard yards! I mocked up a bodice and found that not only was it too short, but there was not enough coverage across the wrap, so I lengthened the whole bodice by 1″ and extended the front wrap panels by 1/2″ at the top, grading out to 1″ at the bottom which resulted in a much more substantial overlap. It worked! To stabilize the neckline I added clear plastic tape around the whole of the front and around the neck. This has given me much needed bust-security and so far there hasn’t been so much as a flash of bra!

My final tweak was to swap out the original skirt for version B. I thought it looked a bit full for my taste, so added a Moneta skirt instead. What do you think?

Top 5 of 2015: The Misses

 And where there are highs there must be lows! Here’s my second post in Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow’s annual roundup of sewing hits and misses. I’m unwilling to call these garments fails as I think that contributes to an unhealthy obsession with achieving perfection. There’s no failure in honing skills. Let’s just say that each of these garments taught me something about pattern choices. And there’s only three!

Maxi Moneta

I don’t know what to say about this dress. I am deeply in love with my black Moneta, which featured in my Top 5 last year. Over the summer I saw a number of maxi dresses, including this gorgeous Moneta hack by Cashmerette. I had some black jersey and decided I would have one too. What resulted was a dress I lived and wore regularly until I saw the photos I took for the blog….. I still wear it most weekends so it’s not such a massive miss. it’s just not a very flattering outfit, compared to my favourite black Moneta. It does feel like you’re going to the shops in your nightie. Is that such a fail?!

The Big Purple One

As discussed (at length) over the festive period, this Simplicity 2406 (code named The Big Purple One after the people’s favourite Quality Street) just didn’t turn out as envisaged. It’s not a bad frock, just a bit shapeless for my style. Now I’m halfway through reading Fit For Real People I’ve got a much better understanding of the Big 4 pattern companies’ sizing. I would have started smaller. Noted for next time.

Bluegingerdoll Violet Dress


There’s not a lot to say here. Wrong. Shape. Totally the wrong shape for me. I tried to be cute by combining two different pontes. It just looked wrong. I’d love to know where it is now after I donated it to charity earlier this year!

 In Loving Memory…

 Polka Dot Moneta
I couldn’t sign off without paying respect to my beloved polka dot Moneta, who has passed on to the great textile recycling bin in the sky. I suspect the cheap fabric was at fault as the dress began to ladder along the seams. This was my first Moneta. Gone but not forgotten.


Top 5 of 2015: The Hits

Happy New Year, everyone! We’re still lounging around in pyjamas mid-afternoon, New Year’s Day. Ah! Bliss!!

It’s the perfect time to indulge in a spot of reflection over 2015, courtesy of Crafting a Rainbow’s Top 5. It was quite a big year involving a massive house move. To be honest, I wasn’t even sure how I could carry on sewing, let alone blogging, with so much upheaval to contend with. In the end there was only a brief period in the middle of the year where I didn’t sew, and that was only because my sewing machine was being shipped. When it arrived, I was more than ready to get sewing again! This experience proved to me that sewing wasn’t a fad or even just a hobby. It was about how I clothe myself.  It would be hard to give that up and return to uninspiring and ill-fitting RTW clothes.

I began the year making making winter clothes then swiftly had to fill an entire wardrobe with tropical weather work clothes for the move to Malaysia. By by year-end I was craving cosy, winter clothes again. I indulged, which seemed a bit silly at the time, but they came in handy during my chilly Christmas holiday to Japan. So, here I present my Top 5 of 2015 (#sewingtop5):

By Hand London Anna

It’s quite astounding that a dress pattern I didn’t think would suit me became some of my favourite garments of the year. On the left is the full-length version made from viscose (which I was inspired to finish by blogging it as an unfinished garment in Sewvember). On the right is my first version in nautical cotton poplin. I was childishly excited when the BHL girls re-posted both dresses on their Instagram feed. I’m refining the fit of the bodice (again) for a new Anna. Watch this space!

Colette Laurel

I fell hard for the simple shift shape of the Colette Laurel. I’d made a denim and Liberty lawn version previously, so I knew it was a pattern that worked for me. As I found my feet in KL, this was the perfect dress to get me sewing again to show off fabulous local fabrics. My favourite is the black and white viscose, but the tropical viscose print and Japanese cotton also worked well.


By now I have quite a wardrobe-full of dresses and this year I felt the need for more casual garments so I could wear handmade when I was jean-clad. Casual tops were also the perfect vehicle for my love of stripes! Look out for more stripes this year as I’ve been collecting the best striped fabrics on my travels. Pictured: three different Bluegingerdoll Bonnies (snakeskin ponte in the original bodice length, organic cotton stripes and lace print ponte both with lengthened bodices), a Grainline Linden sweatshirt, and a Grainline Hemlock tee.

SBCC Moto Chic Jacket


My final two Top 5 choices are one-off garments. First up is my SBCC Moto Chic jacket. i am sooooo happy with this. I really took my time and made a toile, and then spent ages taking each step carefully. The effort paid off. I was lucky that SBCC Patterns seem to draft for my curves, so minimum changes were needed. I would wear it every day if I could. Perhaps I should just turn up the AC and get it on!



What can I say about these Prima culottes? I absolutely love them! They are comfy, yet fashionable. I get a lot of stares when I’m wearing these, perhaps not universally admiring glances. But I don’t care! The black linen is starting to fade a little, so I might have to think about pair number 2!

Other Reflections

I can pinpoint two big changes that have affected my sewing this year. One was receiving an overlocker for Christmas last year. Thanks again, Mum. It gets used on almost every garment. The other was Instagram. I wasn’t sure if I could be bothered with such high-intensity social media, but I tried it and was hooked. It’s a fantastic way to post a quick snap-shot of what you’re working on, and I feel like I’ve met more people in the sewing community through participating in photo-hops and sew-alongs. It’s an addictive quick fix, but I do  wonder what it will mean for the future of blogs as our attention span ever diminishes? I still think there’s a place for the detail recorded in blogs, but my stats suggest that, like me, people are spending less time reading blogs.

So, a heartfelt thank you for reading this far, and for all of the friendship, support, and advice you’ve given me this year. It’s been so much fun having this online life, and it has definitely kept me sane as I settle into another life away from South London. As I said at the start, I did wonder whether to stop blogging when I moved, but my pre-move post, entitled “So Long, South London” asking for your views on whether to continue had the most comments of the whole year. Happy New Year!!

The Big Purple One

At this time of year I find I have a yearning for a special dress: something a little bit out of the ordinary; modern yet suitable for festive occasions. I should have learned my lesson from last year’s experience with my birthday dress….

This year I came across this Cynthia Rowley for Simplicity 2406 and thought it would be perfect. The pattern had a nice gathered neckline, with the option of sleeveless, short sleeves or three-quarter length sleeves. I really liked the raglan sleeves and the idea of an elegant opening on the back, balanced with a sash around the waist.
I have a historic nervousness of commercial pattern companies due to the vagaries of sizing. I’ve only made a couple of garments from the Big 4, and every one has had issues with ease and has been far too big, despite paying attention to the finished garment measurements. I really don’t understand where I go wrong, but I have read of people going down several sizes to offset the generous amounts of design ease. Foolishly, I graded up a size at the hips based upon mine and the finished garment measurements.

A somewhat wrinkled back view, fresh from the suitcase!

So, having consulted my measurements, I plunged right in. I had high hopes of a cute, almost-cocktail style dress and decided to make the first one from a lovely rich purple viscose. If all went well, I might even have used some of my precious Shanghai Tang silk for the ‘real one’. Herein lay the first problem. I hadn’t spotted that the fabric requirement only covered the dress itself and the amount required for the sash was not included. I dashed back to the shop to find that the fabric was no longer in stock.

So no matching sash. My next revelation was that, once stitched up, my ‘almost-cocktail’ dress resembled something more akin to a cassock, or, as I now like to think of it, a giant Quality Street chocolate – the Big Purple One in fact.

Unsure whether to salvage it or not, I ended up taking around 4 inches from the underarm side-seam down to the hips to give it some shape as you can see in this photo. Despite it being nothing like I envisaged, I do rather like the raglan sleeves and the gathered neckline. So much so, that here I am wearing it on Christmas Day.

There’s probably more to be removed from the sides if I’m really to salvage it. What do you think? Is it worth it?

Oh, and pardon the facial expressions. My small people were running riot at the buffet breakfast while we tried to get some quick snaps!